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| Garments Pattern Section |
In the garment industry,
products are only as good as the patterns that they are made from. It is up to
the professional pattern maker to take the designs or a prototype garment and
develop it into a workable pattern for mass production. With so much of the
profitability and success of the business riding on the original pattern,
apparel manufacturers naturally want to hire only the most highly trained
pattern makers.
Pattern making is a highly
skilled technique which calls for technical ability, and a sensitivity to
interpret a design with a practical understanding of garment construction. For
successful dress designing pattern making forms the fundamental step. This
function connects design to production by producing paper templates for all
components such as cloth, hemming, fusible etc. which have to be cut for completing
a specific garment. Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and
shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human
figure.
Pattern making is a bridge
function between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment
via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment
components. A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width
and depth. Within this roughly cylindrical framework there are a series of
secondary curves and bulges, which are of concern to the pattern maker. Darts
are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth into
a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.
A pattern maker typically makes
a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional fashion
illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern
making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat
pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough
ease for movement and comfort.
This report is directed toward
fashion designers who want to learn more about patternmaking and toward those
already in the patternmaking field who are looking to advance their skills.
Students
will be able to:
ü Understand
the key terminology of this specialized field;
ü Create
accurate measurements from a dress form or body form;
ü Work
with industry specifications;
ü Develop
paper patterns and cut in fabric;
ü Assess
the proper fitting and adjustments of a garment; and
ü Prepare
the pattern for mass production.
The
curriculum focuses on:
ü Developing
initial body waist and hip templates from specifications.
ü Developing
patterns in various styles from initial templates.
ü Applying
muslin templates to mannequins with attention to specification and fitting.
ü Grading
and marker layouts for samples, costing, and mass production.
ü Developing
linings, facings, fusibles, stays, and stampers for tops and bottoms.
ü Developing
basic jacket, product development.
ü Construction
techniques.
ü Fitting
on live models.
ü Introduction
to the industry and the profession.
ü Adjustments
and modifications of production patterns on screen from screen fitting.
Following Accessories are needed for pattern making:
i.
Tape Measure
ii.
Seam Ripper
iii.
Fine Point Sharpie Marker
iv.
Tracing Wheel
v.
Rotary Cutter
vi.
Fabric Scissors
vii.
Tracing Paper
viii.
Scotch Tape
ix.
Clear Rulers
x.
Right Angle
xi.
Curved Rulers.
Patterns are made in two steps. These are:
1. Block Pattern,
2. Working Pattern.
1.
Block Pattern: Block pattern or basic block indicates
the original pattern. Block Pattern is made based on the specific and standard
body measurement without any design or style. It is produced according to exact
dimension of body for different age group and gender.
2.
Working Pattern: Working pattern is derived from the
flat method or modeling. Each and every pattern is laid on the board paper to
copy the block pattern. Then sewing allowance, Trimming allowance, Button hole,
button attaching, dart, pleat, Notch, shrinkage of the fabric, etc. are added
with the copied pattern.
Working pattern are needed for each every part of the
garments. Working patterns are then cut with a sharp scissor or knife. Garment
size and name of the parts are written on the pattern pieces. Sample garments
are made from the working pattern.
Grading:
Grading means the step wise increase or decrease of a master
pattern piece to create larger or smaller sizes. The starting point can be the
smallest size or the middle size. Grading alters the overall size of a design
but not its general shape and appearance. Computer aided grading systems
utilize internal calculation algorithms (grading rules) for pattern
construction.
Two methods of Grading:
1. Manual Grading,
2. Computer Aided Grading.
1.
Manual Grading: The desired range of sizes is created
one by one using a pattern template. Marks are made around the master pattern
at the appropriate distance and the marks are later joined up to form the
enlarged pattern. In this way a full set of templates, the pattern set is
generated.
2.
Computer Aided Grading: Computer based Grading systems are
operating in one of two ways. In a fully automated system, the garment parts
will be sorted automatically and arranged in to a lay plan which can then be
transmitted in the form of a control program to the automatic laying and cutting
system.
Some important definition related to pattern making:
Darts:
The purpose of dart is to eliminate excessive fabric in a pattern so that it
can conform into the shape of a human body.
Grain
Line: Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called Grain line.
Grain Line of pattern pieces usually is parallel to the warp (woven) or wale
(knit). The actual direction depends on whether the pattern is to align with
the warp, weft, wale or course when laid on the fabric for cutting. The
direction of the grain line is therefore determined by the designer.
Drill
Holes: Drill holes are small holes drilled into pattern to indicate
where other components (such as pockets) should be superimposed.
Notches:
Notches are cut into the pattern to indicate points where garment components
that are to be joined together..
A pattern maker working procedure has mentioned below.
1.
Work Sheet Review:
i. Have to review all the packages/ program completely point
by point for clear understanding. For this task pattern maker should consult
with concern merchandiser regularly.
ii. Ask merchandiser to provide all basic information or
development manual to review.
iii. Have to confirm all the packages are clearly
understood. It will be better if receive any reference sample from buyers end
to review.
iv. Have to know sample development schedule and dispatch
time before starting pattern.
v. If having any confutation or unclear point, should clear
it before start pattern making.
2.
Basic Pattern:
i. Check previous season or buyer mention block to avoid fit
problem.
ii. Check block measurement and write beside of new style
measurement sheet.
iii. Should carefully rectify block for new style.
iv. Consider measurement loose for sewing, refer to previous
similar style.
v. Consider the design line from mark sample or sketch.
vi. If available copy pattern construction from previous
style.
vii. Should use mark and pin sample to make new style
pattern.
viii. Should apply update comments to avoid any missing and
mistake.
3.
Style Pattern:
i. Before creating style pattern has to understand all the construction
clearly.
ii. Have to understand the importance of notches, interior
& exterior design details.
iii. Have to understand seam allowance requirements based on
machine & product construction.
iv. Add fabrication as mention BOM with compare sketch details.
v. Proceed to make lining pattern from shell pattern based
on style.
vi. Check the full style pattern again ones ready, Like Join
seam, fabrication, notches,
Internals, seam allowance, and all parts are created.
vii. Pattern maker should make some mock up for critical
points to fit the sample and consult with seniors if necessary.
viii. To make washing style pattern, pattern maker has to
consider fabric shrinkage percentage and pay extra care to erase measurement
problem.
4.
Marker Making:
i. Have to make correct model with all the pattern and
correct fabrication.
ii. Before start the marker, pattern, and marker man have to
check fabrication with fabric type and all pattern pieces are there to avoid
any missing and mistake.
iii. Marker man should collect all the fabric width
information.
5.
Sewing Pattern:
i. Have to study buyer spec sheet clearly and sketch details
attentively and follow all of their sewing pattern guideline.
ii. Have to print out all needed pattern and be ready for
sewing.
iii. The entire finish pattern should be plot finish
pattern, should not with allowance.
iv. All the important position should be confirmed by
seniors.
Beside this a pattern maker has to maintain below
responsibilities:
As we know if a pattern maker
makes a mistake it will bring great loss to concern garments company. So
garments owner should emphasize on pattern section and give them good working
environment with motivation. It’s human nature that whenever they will get more
then they will pay more attention to their duties.
i. To be energetic for the development of patterns regularly
and no compromise against product quality & measurement.
ii. Have to find out quick solution against any problem
arisen regarding patterns during bulk production and identify root causes to
erase hassles and take prompt corrective actions.
iii. To be sincere to fulfill the pattern demand of buyers
to improve the product quality.
iv. To keep up communication through e-mail or other way
with the concern parties.
v. Motivate and give training to subordinates to enrich
their skills.
vi. Communicate with Merchandiser, CAD, Cutting, Printing,
Embroidery, QC and Sewing floor for any functional requirements.
vii. Hardly devoted to achieve the company’s goal.
viii. Promptly implement the instruction of higher
management.
ix. Should have sound knowledge regarding the utilization of
equipment/machinery in production floor to ensure the product quality during
pattern making.
Note:
All the pattern maker should follow this entire guideline perfectly without
fall to minimize the mistake. We should realize that our entire attempt might
become in vain if the pattern maker not maintain the above instructions
strictly and not finished his task carefully. It will be better if there a
cordial relation between pattern maker and concern merchandiser to expedite
above task.
Conclusion:
Skill-ness, technical knowledge, analytical power of drawing and special
ability on technology of making garments are necessary for pattern making.
Special care is very essential here because if any fault is occurred during
making pattern such as design or measure or lack of any piece and if these
faults are not corrected before marker making then the whole production is
cancelled. So we should have clear idea and sufficient knowledge on pattern
making and should be very careful during pattern making.
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